Hidden gems: cocktails and cabaret at New Bloomsbury Set
I’m on my way to the New Bloomsbury Set, an intimate cabaret bar tucked away under the busy streets of Bloomsbury. As I make my way through the pedestrian-filled streets of London, weaving between the al-fresco diners and drinkers, I can't help but feel like I've been transported across the English channel to a petite rue in the South of France.

I’m on my way to the New Bloomsbury Set, an intimate cabaret bar tucked away under the busy streets of Bloomsbury. As I make my way through the pedestrian-filled streets of London, weaving between the al-fresco diners and drinkers, I can't help but feel like I've been transported across the English channel to a petite rue in the South of France. 

'You have arrived at your destination!!'...confused, I stomp up and down Marchmont Street, surveying the buildings for a sign that invited me in by screaming 'New Bloomsbury Set!!'. I should have known that NBS would be tucked discretely between its surroundings by the nature of a speakeasy bar. There's always something so magical about a speakeasy; it's as though you are crossing a threshold through time. I descend down a narrow staircase neighboured by various cafes and eateries, through a little green door. "I had a bit of a hard timing getting here!'.

When I arrive, Bar Manager Jack Heneghan welcomes me in with a Cheshire cat smile. 

The decor is minimal but cosy, and behind the bar is an assortment of potions standing tall under a spotlight of purple light. The venue glitters with warm ambient lighting, cushion-filled bunkers and comfy sofas. Mellow pop whispers in the background in unison with the clink and pour of decadent cocktails.

We take a seat. 'A long day of writing ahead,' I say as Jack hands me a glass of sparkling water. Likely the least exciting creation of his day.

The New Bloomsbury Set is a family run business located on Marchmont Street, West London. Jack has been working here for 3 years, having journeyed far and wide on a quest to develop his bartending skills beyond the offerings of his hometown in Donegal, Ireland.

Owned by Andrew Daniels, the bar is touted as a hidden gem in the LGBTQI+ scene and offers a variety of modern classics and signature cocktails. The atmosphere feels high-brow minus the snobbery against a glamourous backdrop of bi-weekly cabaret.

'Back home in Ireland, bar work is predominantly focused on pulling pints. Cocktails are a secondary factor.' Jack says. Creating an ideal balance between the visual appeal of a cocktail and the taste and arrangement of its individual ingredients requires skill and training. It's a creative industry. 'London is world-renowned for cocktails, so it made sense to settle in a city with some of the top talent in the industry' with bars like The Swift, Soho and the Connacht in Mayfair ranking top of the list globally. 

When Jack arrived in London, it was a baptism by fire working long nights in Camden's Simmons bar. Simmons heralds itself as 'one of the city's best party cocktail bars. The venue offers a good product without costing the world and attracts swarms of London's young patrons surfing tsunamis of mai tais and margaritas.

It's early in the evening, and a lively group populates a nearby table and begins to investigate the menu. 'For me, the creativity and care I put into creating a drink have always been super important.' 'The time and effort gone into creating a cocktail create a memorable experience for our customers. Jack continues.

Jack and I chat briefly about his travels across the US and Australia. I'm curious to know where one might start if they want to join the ranks of the city's top bartenders. 'I trained in European Bartending School in Amsterdam, and I was part of a cohort of 35 other cocktail-nerds, eager to learn the tricks of the trade.'

EBS students train full time over a month to master the creation of over 75 cocktails, training in flair bartending, product knowledge, pouring techniques, and sequence of service. With less than half of the intake passing the examination, it's a competitive sport.

The music picks up, and a member of staff clocks in for his shift, giving Jack a pat on the back and me a warm smile. 'We're a close-knit team down here' Jack smiles. 'Everyone's ideas are taken into account, and I love that freedom and creativity to create something new.'

I raise an eyebrow. 'I've always been a bit confused between the differences between a bartender and a mixologist'. Jack pauses and bows his head in a nod of respect to the craft. Bartending and mixology require character and endurance as well as expert skill. 'To me, a mixologist is a bit more serious about the craft. They get a little more molecular with things.' Mixologists are known for combining elixirs and creating extraordinary cocktails. They are like the Master's de Cuisine of the bar'.

I gulp down the remainder of my water and scrutinise the menu. There's an array of classic cocktails and concoctions I don't recognise. Melodies of sweet and salty, punchy chilli, sherbet, and cucumber. I salivate. Suddenly I'm feeling parched. 'How about one of your signature drinks? I'm technically off the clock.

Jack recommends an NBS own creation, 'The Crocodile'. An easy sipping cocktail. It's gin-based with a juicy fusion of cucumber and elderflower finished with sparkling lemonade. The elderflower brings a slightly floral taste with subtle undercurrents of pear, lychee and tropical nuances, which pairs well with the tartness of the lemon and the crisp hydration of cucumber, and an extra sliver for garnish. 

'A modern classic will always have its place on the menu, but I love to keep it as creative as possible. So we'll play around as much as possible with new flavours when we've got a bit of downtime. We call it 'product development.' Jack chortles. 

`We make all of our own grenadine and syrups at home by hand. Of course, bars with cheap drinks and fishbowls will attract crowds, but more often than not, you will get a lot of ice or fruit juice. I scoff, reminiscing on sickly pitchers of sex at the beach I had consumed during my university days.

There's a lot of concept-tinkering and research and development that the team invests into perfecting the menu's flavours. I listen attentively as Jack speaks about the prep work, flavour development, and the various flavour profiles of each cocktail. 

'We play around with different ideas and flavours. The handmade syrups really elevate the drink. I make an orgeat syrup, which we add to our Mai Tai.' It has a distinctive nutty flavour with a hint of citrus, and some people liken it to liquid marzipan. It adds a different complexity to drinks, and it's so unique that there's not a great substitute. 'Naturally, you'll have a few disasters, he sighs dramatically, laughing, recounting the ones that didn't make the cut. 'There's no experimentation without risk.' 

Every 6 months, NBS will give their menu a full refresh aligning with the season's produce and, of course, the R&D that goes on in the homes of the bar staff. To keep it fresh, Jack experiments with details like the glassware or if it's served iced or not. 'We keep the core menu the same and create seasonal drinks, create specials and use that as an opportunity to do a bit of market research.'

'When I'm re-engineering the menu, I'll remember drinks that I've had in another bar, and I'm like - Woah, I need more people to know about this!'. Paper planes are my favourite, they're pretty dry on the palette, bitter, and people are always a little unsure after the first sip. He smiles. 'By their 3rd sip, they're ordering another.'

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'We get that a lot! Having a venue underground can create its own challenge' Jack laughs at my confusion. 'If someone hasn't been here before, they can be a bit wary, so it's crucial that they feel welcome. But, of course, creating the right atmosphere is about adapting to the crowd and the guests' energy.' Jack continues. It's all about tapping into the night's vibe, every Thursday, we have a DJ, and every month we run a couple of cabaret acts to cater to the different clientele. 

'The quality of a venue boils down to overall customer experience.' For me, a fantastic bar knows its identity. One of my favourites is Satan's Whiskers in Bethnal Green' Jack croons. A lot of bars that do a whole array of drinks, but these guys stick to the classics. They make them to a standard that sets them apart from the rest. It's in simple details like the glassware or the ice. That it's all about knowing what you are good at and sticking to it. 'You know what you are getting every time. You know the bar and what they are all about. Its consistency.'

Another party of 4 files through the door, greeting the staff with familiarity. Regulars, I think. 'On the weekends, we keep things lively.' The carberet brings a rush of high energy through the crowd, and there's a sense that this is a moment in time where guests can leave their problems at the door. 'We always get involved in the night even when the bar is busy, he says. 'The crowd can feel the atmosphere behind the bar. It plays a huge part in creating the vibe.' He gets up and disappears behind the bar for a moment. The music picks up the tempo, and the crowd in the corner howl in celebration at the change of song. 

The night is just beginning. 

Visit the New Bloomsbury set at 76a Marchmont St, London WC1N 1AG, and visit our Instagram for the recipe to create your very own 'Crocodile'.